Why does Picture manufacture its T-shirts in Bangladesh?
Picture has been manufacturing its organic cotton T-shirts and sweatshirts in Bangladesh for two years now. This raises legitimate questions, which we will attempt to answer here with maximum transparency and by taking the time to get to the bottom of things. Not only because the subject is complex, but also because Picture is committed to transparency and to improving our relationship with the textile industry. First, let's go back to our original goal. And let's start by referring to our article that details why Picture does not manufacture in France.
Picture's goal has always been to enable as many people as possible to live their passion while minimizing the environmental impact of their clothing. To achieve this, the retail price of our clothing must be in line with what is perceived as the norm, meaning that clothing that incorporates eco-design principles and clothing that does not should be priced at roughly the same level, or at least that the choice with the least environmental impact should not be disproportionately expensive. “We tested it,” says Julien Durant, co-founder of Picture in 2007, "a product at €35 sells normally, and you divide your figures by 2 every time you increase the price by €5. So you sell half as many T-shirts at €40, and at €45 it's already a niche product."
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The retailer's equation
As part of its economic and social approach, Picture has chosen to work with independent, specialist stores to create a genuine connection with the people who buy its clothing. This connection goes beyond the simple act of purchasing, including advice and the opportunity to try on different sizes and products. As part of this dynamic, specialized stores have grown alongside Picture, and we work with the entire network to contribute to local vitality. We are therefore constantly striving to reconcile what we believe to be a virtuous triptych: clothing that incorporates an eco-design approach using certified materials (1), manufactured in factories with social and environmental practices aligned with our values (2), and democratizing responsible purchasing by making this type of clothing accessible to as many people as possible (3).
It is in order to fulfill this ambition that we made the decision in 2024 to move our production from Turkey to Bangladesh, while maintaining the same level of quality and standards.
The right price
Take, for example, a Picture T-shirt made from high-quality organic cotton (we favor long fibers and durability). Manufactured in Turkey, it could be sold at a retail price of €35, taking into account the fact that every player in the chain (from cotton cultivation to store distribution) had to make a profit. This price also allowed us to be competitive with T-shirts made from non-certified materials.
Following post-Covid inflation, many companies were faced with soaring prices, putting them in financial difficulty. It was therefore necessary to adapt. With inflation in Turkey reaching 44% in December 2024 over one year, it was impossible for Picture to maintain the same price level. With our distribution model, the organic cotton T-shirt would have exceeded €50, which would have been unaffordable for a large proportion of outdoor enthusiasts, and Picture would have failed in our original principle of reaching as many people as possible.
We therefore explored other manufacturing options.
Destination Bangladesh
Firstly, we choose the factory and the people we work with above all else because we are committed to a long-term relationship with them. This is the case for all our production units, which we visit regularly (“I usually go twice a year,” says Julien Durant), in addition to working with local labels and partners. Secondly, we have implemented a systematic selection process that we apply to our suppliers, based in particular on quality, cost, and environmental and social practices. Beyond these criteria, our partners in Bangladesh have the advantage, compared to other countries, of offering a more efficient logistics platform (particularly ships departing for Europe) and a “verticality” in the production chain. Julien Durant adds: “The advantage of our partner in Bangladesh is that they control the entire production chain, from yarn to weaving and manufacturing, with one person managing all the information for quality control.”
Carefully selected
Each supplier follows a predefined selection program before becoming a Picture supplier. An initial questionnaire allows us to scrutinize social practices and working conditions. We review existing audits and work with Fair Working Conditions to implement them if they do not exist. Finally, we analyze the factory's certifications in terms of materials and production.
The factory in Bangladesh with which we work has the environmental and social certifications we require:
GOTS for organic cotton (a standard that is passed on from subcontractor to subcontractor and must therefore be respected throughout the chain for the finished product to benefit from it)
Oeko-tex standard 100 for chemical substance control
and social audits based on criteria aligned with International Labor Organization standards.
The factory also has the necessary internal documents and policies, such as a code of conduct and a workers' committee so that employees can express themselves.
Other demanding brands also work with factories in Bangladesh. This helps to improve environmental and social practices. Let's not forget that global warming is a worldwide issue and it would not be in anyone's interest if committed companies abandoned local suppliers who are seeking to meet high standards.
What about the carbon footprint?
We cannot talk about manufacturing on the other side of the world without mentioning what this means in terms of carbon footprint. This is also something that is discussed in our article “Low-carbon electricity and the textile industry.” What is clear is that by shipping our T-shirts in bulk in containers that can hold tens of thousands of them, on ships that can carry thousands of containers, the share of transportation in the carbon footprint of a T-shirt is low, “between 1 and 3%” according to Stewart Sheppard, CSR specialist for textile brands. The biggest impact will always be cotton, which requires tractors for planting and harvesting, machines for cleaning, fertilizers and pesticides, spinning, weaving, etc. That's why Picture is careful to use certified raw materials such as organic cotton for T-shirts and recycled polyester for technical clothing, to reduce environmental impact and ensure a decent income for farmers.
Answer with action
